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Introduction

The Empire's finest have a distinct nasal and mechanical voice when talking through their intercoms. As you work diligently on that Stormtrooper costume and apply for the 501st, you can up your armor game by including a voice changer.

There are pre-built solutions available for budding Stormtrooper cadets, but most are bulky and sometimes require wiring outside the helmet. However, with a little bit of coding and wiring, you can build your own inside a helmet using SparkFun parts.

Required Materials

In this tutorial, we'll build the voice changer on a breadboard for testing. Each helmet will be different, so the wiring will have to be adjusted. The parts list below details what you'll need for the breadboard prototype.

Update: The MEMS Microphone works way better than the Electret Microphone for removing audio feedback in the system.

Note that from the resistor kit you'll need:

  • 1x 2.2kΩ
  • 1x 4.7kΩ

Suggested Reading

We suggest you be familiar with the following before embarking upon this tutorial:

Hardware Hookup

Prep Connectors

Note: This part is optional if you do not plan to connect things to a breadboard. Skip to the Fritzing section to see how to wire things up if you plan to put the components directly into a helmet without headers.

To start, solder headers onto the Teensy and Prop Shield. You'll also want to solder female headers to the edge pins on the Teensy, the edge pins on the Prop Shield, and the Prop Shield's audio out port.

Cut and strip six lengths of wire, each about 6 inches long. Solder them to the speakers (note that you'll need to splice two wires to one for each positive and negative terminal).

Fritzing Wire Diagram

Connect the components as shown in the breadboard. Follow the wires if you plan to put this into a helmet.

Note: You can also stack the Teensy on top of the Prop Shield and solder header pins between them. The wiring diagram is meant to show which connections are needed if you plan to wire them separately.
Having a hard time seeing the circuit? Click on the wiring diagram for a closer look.

Audio System Design

One of the coolest tools for developing on the Teensy is the PJRC Audio System Design Tool. With it, you can drag and drop blocks that correspond to various components on the Teensy, like the ADC and DAC, in addition to useful functions like filters. After connecting them with 'patch cords,' you can export the whole thing as Arduino code. Pretty sweet.

Feel free to try it out and replicate the block diagram.

Note: You don't actually have to recreate the block diagram; the code in The Code section already has the necessary audio pieces built in.

Doing a basic microphone-to-speaker pass through requires simply connecting the ADC to the DAC. To add features, we'll need to put blocks in between those two.

Stormtrooper voices are marked by a nasal sound that can easily be accomplished by turning the treble way up and turning the bass way down. To accomplish this in the Design Tool, we'll use a state variable filter with a corner frequency set to 2000 Hz. Frequencies below that are considered 'bass' (for a voice), and frequencies above that are 'treble.' By separating the low and high frequencies, we can put them back into a mixer and play with the individual gain. In the code, we'll set the treble gain to 0.25 (so as not to blow out the amplifier) and bass to 0.01 (we want it pretty much gone). You can play with any of the GAIN parameters in the code to adjust the volume and treble/bass mix.

You'll also notice that we added a biquad filter right after the ADC. We ultimately want to use this as a low-pass filter to reduce feedback we might get between the microphone and speakers. However, if we enable it in the code, it reduces the quality of the sound, as we effectively filter out most of the voice frequencies we want. Feel free to play with the FEEDBACK_SUPPRESSION and LOWPASS_CUTOFF parameters in the code to try setting the low-pass filter to an acceptable frequency.

The peak is an analysis block that gives us a measure of the amplitude of the audio signal. We use this to determine when someone is talking into the microphone. Play with the SQUELCH_CUTOFF parameter to adjust the volume where the Teensy begins playing sound through the speakers.

playFlashRaw allows us to play a raw audio file that has been loaded into the Prop Shield's serial flash memory. We'll upload the 'click' and 'static burst' sounds and play them whenever a user starts or finishes talking. Change the BEGIN_CLICK parameter to choose whether to play the click sound at the start, and change END_SOUND to choose whether to play a randomly chosen click or static burst at the end of talking.

Click the export button to get the necessary Arduino code. You can just copy it into a sketch!

If you want to try the other blocks, feel free to drag them in and connect some patch cables. To really get some distorted sound, I recommend the Bitcrusher (details for each audio block can be found on the righthand side of the Audio System Design Tool).

Sound Clips

To play the quintessential Stormtrooper 'click' and 'static burst' sounds, we need to rip them from a sound clip, convert them to a raw format and load them into the Prop Shield's serial flash memory.

Convert Sound Clips to Raw

Note: You can skip this section if you choose. The raw sound clips can be found in the GitHub repository.

Find a Stormtrooper sound clip, like this one. Download it and open it with an editing program, like Audacity.

Camel audio camelphat. Make sure the project is set to 44.1kHz, highlight the portion of the clip you want (we'll highlight the 'click' noise) and crop it (Trim Audio in Audacity).

Export the clip (File > Export Audio..), name the new file click.raw and adjust the file options to:

  • Save as type: Other uncompressed files
  • Header: RAW (header-less)
  • Encoding: Signed 16-bit PCM

Repeat this process for the static burst sound, which we named break.raw.

Upload Sound Clips to Prop Shield

Before you begin this part, make sure you have Teensyduino installed in the Arduino development environment. This tutorial was tested using Arduino 1.6.9.

Now that we have the raw sound clips, we need to upload them to the Teensy. To do that, we'll use the TeensyTransfer Tool.

Download the TeensyTransfer repository as a ZIP file. Open a new Arduino sketch and select Sketch > Include Library > Add .ZIP Library. Find and select the TeensyTransfer-master.zip file. This will install the TeensyTransfer library.

Open File > Examples > TeensyTransfer-master > teensytransfertool.

In Tools, select:

  • Board: Teensy 3.2 / 3.1
  • USB Type: Raw HID
  • CPU Speed: 96 MHz optimized (overclock)
  • Port:

Upload the sketch to the Teensy. Find the downloaded TeensyTransfer-master.zip file and unzip it. Go to TeensyTransfer-master/extras and unzip the pre-compiled teensytransfer program for your operating system:

  • teensytransfer.gz for Linux
  • teensytransfer.mac.zip for OS X
  • teensytransfer.zip for Windows

Open a command prompt, navigate to the TeensyTransfer-master/extras/teensytransfer directory and run the program to upload the raw audio clips to the Prop Shield's flash memory:

You can check if the transfer worked by entering teensytransfer -l, and the tool should output the files found on the serial flash memory.

The Code

Create a new Arduino sketch and copy in the code:

Make sure the board has the following settings:

  • Board: Teensy 3.2 / 3.1
  • USB Type: Serial
  • CPU Speed: 96 MHz optimized (overclock)
  • Port:

Upload the sketch to the Teensy, and you're ready to join the Imperial Army!

Run It!

Whenever you speak into the microphone, you'll hear a click followed by a nasal version of your voice. When you stop talking, the Teensy will play a click or a static burst. You can disable the initial click by changing BEGIN_CLICK to false, and you can disable the ending sound by changing END_SOUND to false.

You can also plug a LiPo battery into the Power Cell to power the whole contraption.

Resources and Going Further

This project is meant to be hacked! Try changing some of the variables in the Parameters section of the code to see if you can get the voice to sound the way you want. You can also import the block diagram into the Audio System Design Tool by copying in everything before the // GUItool: end automatically generated code line and clicking Import in the Audio System Design Tool. Add some new blocks and really distort your voice!

Here's an example of the project wired into a Scout Trooper helmet:

Can I Delete Voice Instructions Imperial Zip

Project Resources:

For more fun audio projects, check out these tutorials:

Getting Started with the LilyPad MP3 Player

The LilyPad MP3 Player is an amazing little board that contains almost everything you need to play audio files. You can use it to create all kinds of noisy projects, from MP3 hoodies to talking teddy bears. Your imagination is the only limit! This tutorial will help you get started.

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An introduction to being able to trigger music and sound effects based on buttons, sensors, or switches using the WAV Trigger board.

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Understanding the Musical Instrument Digital Interface.

Interactive LED Music Visualizer

Use an Arduino and the SparkFun Sound Detector to create visualizations on Addressable RGB LED strips.
PagesFavoritedFavorite7

Introduction

The Empire's finest have a distinct nasal and mechanical voice when talking through their intercoms. As you work diligently on that Stormtrooper costume and apply for the 501st, you can up your armor game by including a voice changer.

There are pre-built solutions available for budding Stormtrooper cadets, but most are bulky and sometimes require wiring outside the helmet. However, with a little bit of coding and wiring, you can build your own inside a helmet using SparkFun parts.

Required Materials

In this tutorial, we'll build the voice changer on a breadboard for testing. Each helmet will be different, so the wiring will have to be adjusted. The parts list below details what you'll need for the breadboard prototype.

Update: The MEMS Microphone works way better than the Electret Microphone for removing audio feedback in the system.

Note that from the resistor kit you'll need:

  • 1x 2.2kΩ
  • 1x 4.7kΩ

Suggested Reading

We suggest you be familiar with the following before embarking upon this tutorial:

Hardware Hookup

Prep Connectors

Note: This part is optional if you do not plan to connect things to a breadboard. Skip to the Fritzing section to see how to wire things up if you plan to put the components directly into a helmet without headers.

To start, solder headers onto the Teensy and Prop Shield. You'll also want to solder female headers to the edge pins on the Teensy, the edge pins on the Prop Shield, and the Prop Shield's audio out port.

Cut and strip six lengths of wire, each about 6 inches long. Solder them to the speakers (note that you'll need to splice two wires to one for each positive and negative terminal).

Fritzing Wire Diagram

Connect the components as shown in the breadboard. Follow the wires if you plan to put this into a helmet.

Note: You can also stack the Teensy on top of the Prop Shield and solder header pins between them. The wiring diagram is meant to show which connections are needed if you plan to wire them separately.
Having a hard time seeing the circuit? Click on the wiring diagram for a closer look.

Audio System Design

One of the coolest tools for developing on the Teensy is the PJRC Audio System Design Tool. With it, you can drag and drop blocks that correspond to various components on the Teensy, like the ADC and DAC, in addition to useful functions like filters. After connecting them with 'patch cords,' you can export the whole thing as Arduino code. Pretty sweet.

Feel free to try it out and replicate the block diagram.

Note: You don't actually have to recreate the block diagram; the code in The Code section already has the necessary audio pieces built in.

Doing a basic microphone-to-speaker pass through requires simply connecting the ADC to the DAC. To add features, we'll need to put blocks in between those two.

Stormtrooper voices are marked by a nasal sound that can easily be accomplished by turning the treble way up and turning the bass way down. To accomplish this in the Design Tool, we'll use a state variable filter with a corner frequency set to 2000 Hz. Frequencies below that are considered 'bass' (for a voice), and frequencies above that are 'treble.' By separating the low and high frequencies, we can put them back into a mixer and play with the individual gain. In the code, we'll set the treble gain to 0.25 (so as not to blow out the amplifier) and bass to 0.01 (we want it pretty much gone). You can play with any of the GAIN parameters in the code to adjust the volume and treble/bass mix.

You'll also notice that we added a biquad filter right after the ADC. We ultimately want to use this as a low-pass filter to reduce feedback we might get between the microphone and speakers. However, if we enable it in the code, it reduces the quality of the sound, as we effectively filter out most of the voice frequencies we want. Feel free to play with the FEEDBACK_SUPPRESSION and LOWPASS_CUTOFF parameters in the code to try setting the low-pass filter to an acceptable frequency.

The peak is an analysis block that gives us a measure of the amplitude of the audio signal. We use this to determine when someone is talking into the microphone. Play with the SQUELCH_CUTOFF parameter to adjust the volume where the Teensy begins playing sound through the speakers.

playFlashRaw allows us to play a raw audio file that has been loaded into the Prop Shield's serial flash memory. We'll upload the 'click' and 'static burst' sounds and play them whenever a user starts or finishes talking. Change the BEGIN_CLICK parameter to choose whether to play the click sound at the start, and change END_SOUND to choose whether to play a randomly chosen click or static burst at the end of talking.

Click the export button to get the necessary Arduino code. You can just copy it into a sketch!

If you want to try the other blocks, feel free to drag them in and connect some patch cables. To really get some distorted sound, I recommend the Bitcrusher (details for each audio block can be found on the righthand side of the Audio System Design Tool).

See Full List On Ee.ic.ac.uk

Sound Clips

To play the quintessential Stormtrooper 'click' and 'static burst' sounds, we need to rip them from a sound clip, convert them to a raw format and load them into the Prop Shield's serial flash memory.

Convert Sound Clips to Raw

Note: You can skip this section if you choose. The raw sound clips can be found in the GitHub repository.

Find a Stormtrooper sound clip, like this one. Download it and open it with an editing program, like Audacity.

Make sure the project is set to 44.1kHz, highlight the portion of the clip you want (we'll highlight the 'click' noise) and crop it (Trim Audio in Audacity).

Export the clip (File > Export Audio..), name the new file click.raw and adjust the file options to:

  • Save as type: Other uncompressed files
  • Header: RAW (header-less)
  • Encoding: Signed 16-bit PCM

Repeat this process for the static burst sound, which we named break.raw.

Upload Sound Clips to Prop Shield

Before you begin this part, make sure you have Teensyduino installed in the Arduino development environment. This tutorial was tested using Arduino 1.6.9.

Now that we have the raw sound clips, we need to upload them to the Teensy. To do that, we'll use the TeensyTransfer Tool.

Download the TeensyTransfer repository as a ZIP file. Open a new Arduino sketch and select Sketch > Include Library > Add .ZIP Library. Find and select the TeensyTransfer-master.zip file. This will install the TeensyTransfer library.

Open File > Examples > TeensyTransfer-master > teensytransfertool.

In Tools, select:

  • Board: Teensy 3.2 / 3.1
  • USB Type: Raw HID
  • CPU Speed: 96 MHz optimized (overclock)
  • Port:

Upload the sketch to the Teensy. Find the downloaded TeensyTransfer-master.zip file and unzip it. Go to TeensyTransfer-master/extras and unzip the pre-compiled teensytransfer program for your operating system:

  • teensytransfer.gz for Linux
  • teensytransfer.mac.zip for OS X
  • teensytransfer.zip for Windows

Open a command prompt, navigate to the TeensyTransfer-master/extras/teensytransfer directory and run the program to upload the raw audio clips to the Prop Shield's flash memory:

You can check if the transfer worked by entering teensytransfer -l, and the tool should output the files found on the serial flash memory.

The Code

Voice_instructions_imperial_zip.oog

Create a new Arduino sketch and copy in the code:

Make sure the board has the following settings:

  • Board: Teensy 3.2 / 3.1
  • USB Type: Serial
  • CPU Speed: 96 MHz optimized (overclock)
  • Port:

Upload the sketch to the Teensy, and you're ready to join the Imperial Army!

Run It!

Whenever you speak into the microphone, you'll hear a click followed by a nasal version of your voice. When you stop talking, the Teensy will play a click or a static burst. You can disable the initial click by changing BEGIN_CLICK to false, and you can disable the ending sound by changing END_SOUND to false.

You can also plug a LiPo battery into the Power Cell to power the whole contraption.

Resources and Going Further

This project is meant to be hacked! Try changing some of the variables in the Parameters section of the code to see if you can get the voice to sound the way you want. You can also import the block diagram into the Audio System Design Tool by copying in everything before the // GUItool: end automatically generated code line and clicking Import in the Audio System Design Tool. Add some new blocks and really distort your voice!

Cached

Here's an example of the project wired into a Scout Trooper helmet:

Project Resources:

For more fun audio projects, check out these tutorials:

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How to assemble the SparkFun MIDI Shield, plus several example projects.




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